The next day, the wedding ceremony will take place in the early morning. The wedding reception and dinner will take place in the evening. Below is a more detailed program.

31 December
Morning (Temple)

• 8.00 – Buying food at the market for offerings in the temple
• 10.00 – Blessing ceremony in the temple (probably Wat Mai)
• 12.00 – Perhaps lunch in the temple

Evening (Rehearsal dinner)

• 19.00 – Location: Bua Kang Beung.

1 January
Morning (Wedding ceremony)

• 8.00-9.00 – Veo’s family and friends assemble at the Heritage House, Guido’s family and friends assemble at Tum Tum Cheng guesthouse and parade to the Heritage House.
• 9.30 – Guido bribes his way past the gatekeepers
• 10.00-12.00 – Baci Soukhuan Ceremony
• 12.00-14.00 – Lunch at the Heritage House

Evening (Reception / Dinner)

• 17.00 – 19.00 Sunset cocktail Location: Hotel The Grand Luang Prabang
• 19.00 – Dinner

There is more information about the ceremonies here.

Before and during the ceremonies we will not be able to have much attention to explain to people about what’s going on and what to do. Anders Hakansson will help us during the ceremonies. He is quite familiar with what is going on in the temple and during the wedding ceremony, so if you want to know something or if you’re unsure what to do, please direct your questions to Anders.

The first ceremony is in the morning of the 31st and is a blessing by monks in the temple. It’s a simple ceremony that Lao people often do in their lives for many different reasons. In our case, we invite good fortune into our married lives by making offerings and receive blessings from monks the day before the wedding.

Everyone is welcome to attend. When you do, bringing food as an offer is welcomed. It can be anything you can find on the market: rice, fruits, barbecued fish, barbecued chicken, dessert, or any other food found on the market. We will go to the market early in the morning. You’re welcome to join us.

All the food that people bring will be placed on low round tables and presented to the monks. It is at the same time an offer to deceased family members. After the ceremony the monks will eat part of the food. After the monks are finished, people usually sit and eat together.

The second ceremony is in the morning of the 1st and is, of course, the wedding ceremony. This is not a Buddhist ceremony, but one that is uniquely Lao and predates Buddhism in Laos. This ceremony, called the “Baci Soukhuan”, is practiced on many different occasions and for many different reasons. “Baci Soukhuan” could perhaps be translated as “ceremony to call spirits to you”. The ceremony helps to restore the balance and harmony to the individual and community by calling back a persons 32 spirits. Lao people like to perform the “baci” for sick people, for people that embark on a journey, the birth of a baby, to ensure a successful new enterprise or undertaking, and of course a wedding. It is not uncommon for travelers to find themselves invited into a Lao home for a similar ceremony.

In Laos the wedding “baci” is held in the house of the bride. Our ceremony will take place in a simple traditional Lao house that is restored as part of the UNESCO World Heritage program, called the Heritage House. Here, Veo and her family will get ready in the morning. At the same time Guido and his family and friends will parade with music and dance from the guesthouse to the Heritage House, where he will find his entrance blocked by the gatekeepers. These gatekeepers are younger female family members of Veo and they will test Guido’s determination to marry Veo by asking for bribes. Guido will have to negotiate his entrance into the Heritage House.

The wedding ceremony will take place inside the house. The “Phakhuan” is a handmade arrangement of flowers and banana leaves surrounded by items of food and it is the centerpiece of the ceremony. Hanging from the “phakhuan” are many white strings that will be used later in the ceremony. Everybody is sitting on the ground in circles around the “phakhuan”. Veo and Guido will be sitting close to the “phakhuan” and next to them will sit the “Mohporn” who presides over the ceremony.

The beauty and scent of the “phakhuan” and the food attracts the spirits. The chant and prayers of the “Mohporn” will call the spirits and bring them back. At the right moment when the spirits return he will tie one of the white strings around Veo’s and Guido’s wrists to “capture” the spirits.

After the ceremony all the guests can take a string and tie it around Veo’s and Guido’s wrist while making a wish for the newly wedded couple. As you can imagine, a Lao ceremony without food is impossible, so we’ll have lunch right after the ceremony.

Some pointers anyway: The wedding ceremony in the morning is going to be simple in character, so maybe Gala style is not your best bet. Nonetheless, it is, of course, a happy occasion, so think festive. Especially for the party in the evening, which will be in a more elegant and classy setting. Most of Veo’s family will be wearing traditional silk clothing for the morning ceremony. Some of Guido’s friends came up with the plan to also buy Lao style silk shirts ($20). I have heard from several people that they want to wear (summer) suites and elegant dresses for the party. Others want to keep it a little simpler. BTW, going all black is considered a funeral only thing in Laos (just black pants or skirts or a dark suite is fine). Also keep in mind that the evenings in December can be a little cool. And whatever you wear, just don’t forget your dancing shoes.

For people who also want to come to the temple in the morning of the 31st, please wear something that is not too revealing. Lao women would usually wear long skirts to the temple. You could do the same or wear long pants. Please keep the short skirts and tank tops for another time. And for men, you’d look very silly (if not disrespectful) in your shorts at the temple.

VERY IMPORTANT: Bring the money in Dollars when you arrive, because you won’t find atm’s or money changers at the border. You have to bring a pass photo and fill out the name of the hotel you’re staying at. They also ask for a contact in Laos. Just fill out the name of the hotel you will be staying at.

Still you won’t be able to escape the Kip altogether. In most places where you pay with Dollars you will get your change in Kip. That’s fine. You will be able to use that for smaller purchases, like drinks and food and with street vendors. The Thai Bath is also accepted everywhere, but unless you come with some excess Bath from Thailand, you will probably not be using it a lot.

Make sure you bring Dollars. I usually bring enough for the duration of the trip so I don’t have top go the bank, but I can imagine some people don’t like to walk around with too much cash. In Luang Prabang, there is a bank in the main street, but they only carry Kips, so you won’t be able to get Dollars there. Not a big problem, but you’ll be walking around with a stack of bills and you can never exchange them back to Dollars or Euros again, so you’ll have to spend or donate them before leaving. Another bank in Luang Prabang a bit more out of the way, does carry Dollars, but half of your withdrawal must be Kips. Banks charge a fee of about 2% (I think…) for the exchange.

As far as I know there is exactly one ATM in Laos and it is Vientiane. It gives out Kips only, but inside the bank you can do a 100% Dollar withdrawal.

Credit card is accepted in bigger hotels and guest houses and some restaurants. VISA seems to be the most accepted one. I wouldn’t count on the other brands. A fee of 2% is charged for every transaction.

The following places where some of us will be staying accept VISA:

• Lao Orchid Hotel in Vientiane
• Tum Tum Cheng guest house in Luang Prabang
• 3 Nagas hotel in Luang Prabang

Whenever you go inside a building somewhere you should take off your shoes. Sandals and flip flops are ideal for Laos.

With so many rivers and waterfalls you’re likely to go play in the water at some point, but somehow western women in bikini always look a bit out of place in Laos. It’s up to you. Lao people just go play in the water in whatever they’re wearing.

Some of Veo’s tips: Sunscreen, mosquito repellent, hand sanitizer; Veo found that female products weren’t so easy to find in Laos. Some people should bring some medical emergency stuff such as painkillers and band-aids. Pharmacies are unreliable and badly stocked.

Where western people greet each other with a hand shake, Lao people greet each other by pressing the palms of their hands and fingers against each other in front of their chest. It’s called a “nop”. Shaking hands is also acceptable for men. Lao people never ever greet each other with a kiss.

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Remember to take your shoes off when you enter a Lao person’s home or temple. Using your feet for anything other than walking or playing sports is considered rude. So be careful not to put your feet up on a table in a public place. Pointing your feet at someone is a very rude gesture in Southeast Asia. Needless to say that when you’re in a Temple and sit on the ground, you do not sit with your feet pointed towards the Buddha statues or monks. Keep your feet behind you or just look at how others are doing it.

Lao people usually sit on the ground when they are at home or in the temple. When walking around be careful not to step “over” someone in your path. When you have to pass close to someone sitting on the ground it is polite to gently crouch or stoop down a little in a respectful attempt to be on the same level as them.

Kissing, hugging, shouting and arguing in public makes Lao people feel very uncomfortable. Most people won’t pass judgment, but rather feel sorry for you.

If you feel wronged by a Lao person, try not to argue loudly with them. It will get you absolutely nowhere. Lao people simply don’t know how to deal with that and quietly prefer not to deal with you at all. Problems are dealt with harmoniously or not at all. If you have a problem, bring it up with a smile and clearly but gently explain your problem and your wish. Most people are willing to look for a solution that will save both your face as well as theirs. Try and do the same.

Haggling and bargaining is normal in Laos. Get over your western reluctance and find out that it can be done with a smile and that it can be a pleasant social activity where both people part ways happy with the transaction. Fixed prices are becoming more and more normal. When you see articles with price tags, it usually means the price is fixed.

When you visit a temple for an occasion or ceremony, please wear something that is not too revealing. Lao women would usually wear long skirts to the temple. You could do the same or wear long pants. Please keep the short skirts and tank tops for another time. And for men, you’d look very silly (if not disrespectful) in your shorts at the temple.

Lao people, when they enter the temple, one of the first things they’ll do is to lower themselves on their knees and do an alternation of a “nop” to the Buddha statues and bringing their head close to the ground three times. This is not expected from foreigners, but you’re more than welcome to try and pay your respect this way.

Monks are revered and respected in Laos. They are at the same time very open to talk to. Especially the younger novices like to practice their English with foreigners. Monks are greeted with a “nop”. Don’t shake hands with them.

Monks have taken a vow of celibacy and have chosen not to have any physical contact with women. As a woman, please be careful not to touch a monk or his robe. If you want to hand something to a monk, just place it on the ground in front of him.

Sabai dee – Hello, How are you?
Sok dee – Good bye (lit. good luck)
Kop chai (lai lai) – Thank you (very much)
Boh pen yang – You’re welcome, it doesn’t matter, it’s fine, don’t worry
Boh kau jai – I don’t understand

Koi – I, me
Tjao – You, your
Lao – He, she, him, her

Tjao seu nyang? – What’s your name?
Koi seu ….. – My name is ….
Pai talat – Go to the market
Pai wat – Go to the temple

Falang – Foreigners
Koh toht – Excuse me, sorry
Tjao – Yes
Boh – No

Juu sai… ? – Where is…?
Hong Haem – Hotel
Hong – Room
Hong naam – Bathroom (lit. water room)

Ahaan – Food
Haan ahaan – Restaurent
Saep – Good (for food or in Dutch “lekker”)
… mii boh? – Do you have….?
Koi jaak seuh … – I want to buy…
Kao – rice
Naam – Water

Toh dai – How much is it? (as is in “what is the price?”)
(Boh) Peng – (not) expensive
Teuk – Cheap

Numbers:
0 – soen
1 – nueng
2 – song
3 – saam
4 – Sii
5 – haa
6 – hok
7 – djed
8 – paed
9 – kao
10 – sib
20 – Saao
30 – Saam-sib
40 – sii-sib
50 – haa-sib
60 – hok-sib
70 – djed-sib
80 – paed-sib
90 – kao-sib
100 – loi / neung-loi
500 – haa-loi
1000 – phan
5000 – haa-pan
10.000 – meun

962 – kao-loi hok-sib song

I would recommend that everyone book their rooms as soon as possible, especially in Luang Prabang. I have received news from friends in Laos that December is an extremely high season for Luang Prabang and hotels will fill up very quickly. Keep in mind that Luang Prabang is a small town and most hotels/guest houses have very few rooms (10-20 rooms in most places). There is still choice now, but if you wait until September/October, rooms will likely fill up. I have made several phone calls to various hotels/guest houses and already, rooms are starting to fill up.

If you want us to help you book rooms, please let us know ASAP. That way we can also try to book people together in a few places. If you want us to look for you, let us know the following:

• Exact dates for Vientiane and Luang Prabang
• Your names
• Rough price indication (basic $5-$10, budget $10-$25, standard $25-$50)
• Room type: double, twin, single (double means one big bed, twin means two small beds)

Leave a comment (below the text) or send it to wedding@hosman.com. If you want us to reserve for you, please allow us to weigh the different option and make a desicion on your behalf. We will try and find the best option for everyone.

Guest houses are usually much cheaper in comparison to “hotels”. At the bottom of the range you have the basic guest houses with rates between $5-$10 and which are popular with backpackers on a very tight budget. The rooms are very basic and usually have shared bathrooms and can sometimes be less than comfortable. In the range from $10-$25, from experience, many guest houses are clean, come with air-con, hot shower and tv and run by shy, friendly staff. In the next price range up from $25-$50 you get more comfort in the quality of the bed, the furnishing of the room and bathroom, etc. Prices differ a bit between the different cities. Luang Prabang is usually a bit more expensive than Vientiane. One other thing I would also like to suggest is that, paying more for hotels in Laos does not necessarily mean that you’ll get more. In terms of comparing prices with what you get, it can sometimes be dissappointing. You might find that you’re actually happier going with the cheaper but clean guest houses. Just something to keep in mind when you book .

Vientiane
For Vientiane, I recommend the Vayakorn Guest House for location, price, cleanliness, and friendly staff. It’s listed on-line for $22-$25, but when I called, it’s only $15. For more moderate to high end hotels in Vientiane, please refer to the recommended list and book them soon. I suggest calling the hotel to compare rates. Sometimes rates listed online are higher than what is asked over the phone.

Vang Vieng
For those of you who plan to travel up north with us by bus, please let us know the date of your arrival in Vientiane. We plan to leave on the 28th of December in the morning and need to arrange for transportation to and accomodations in Vang Vieng in advance. I would prefer for everyone to stay under one roof, but of course that is not necessary. Two places I specifically recommend is the The Elephant Crossing or Ban Sabai Bungalows. You can check out pictures of both places on this website (http://www.laohotelgroup.org/accommodation.php) under the tabs ‘Mid-Range’ and ‘High End.’ I was not able to get the rates for The Elephant Crossing, but I am assuming it is roughly the same price as the Ban Sabai or less, around $25-$35 depending on room type. All rooms are equipped with AC (aircon) and have magnificent views of the Nam Song River. It is also possible to stay in cheaper guesthouses. If you would prefer that we help book a cheaper and seperate guesthouse for you, please let us know so that we can help book it for you during our trip there in September. I know a guesthouse that charges $5 that is just slightly outside of the “main” town center, but it is very clean and run by very friendly staff. However, only fan is available. For those who would like to go with our suggestion, please let us know soon. Keep in mind that additional discount of approximately 10% can be given for groups of 20-25.

Luang Prabang
For those that travel with us to Vang Vieng, we will arrive in Luang Prabang on 30 December. For Luang Prabang, I recommend the Senesouk Guesthouse. They charge $25-$35 depending on room type. The Ancient Luang Prabang is also a nice alternative, but they charge slightly higher, around $40-$50. There are many other budget guesthouses in Luang Prabang that are not listed online. For those of you who wish to spend even less, please let us know and provide us with all the necessary information so we can help you make bookings in September. For the remainder of people who do not mind spending $35+, please refer to the recommended list and book your rooms today.

Again, I want to emphasis the importance of booking your rooms as early as possible. I have called hotels around in Luang Prabang and it is still “safe” to find rooms at the moment. But if you wait much longer, you might not be able to find a place to stay (this excludes guest houses which might still be available in September). Luang Prabang is a town nestled in the mountains in the north of Laos and there is no such thing as “the next town over.” So please, do yourself a favor and book your rooms today. Guido and I are here to assist you in any way possible. Please let us know if you need help or have any questions.

Reminders:

• let us know whether or not you are planning to travel up north by bus with us to Vang Vieng and Luang Prabang, and when you are arriving in Vientiane
• let us know if you would like us to help you book guesthouses within the price range of $6-$20 and give us all the necessary information
• please respond by August 30th, a day before we leave for Laos
• please book your rooms (mid-range and higher end hotels) today!!